Beer
From Dswiki
Contents |
Scotish Ale
8-15 lbs 5.5 amber malt extract 1 lb dark malt extract 2 wheat malt (dark better) hops 1oz kent golding
Stuff
> Dark Malt Extract > 1.65 Lbs (Liquid) > > American Dry Dark Malt > 5.5 Lbs (Dry/powder) > > Wheat Malt Extract > 1.65 Lbs (Liquid) > > E. Kent Goldings Hops > 1 oz How dark is the American Dry Dark Malt extract? On the following scale: Pilsener (Lightest) Newcastle Nut Brown (Med Light) Porter (Med Dark) Guiness (Darkest) If the color of the malt is similar to porter or stout, then you'll need to go back and get Amber malt instead - otherwise, I suspect you have something too dark. If it's between nut brown and porter, or lighter, then you should be fine. Another thing to try is to ask the brewstore folks if you could use that as your base malt for a dark beer. I'm not entirely sure myself, as I'm used to all grain brewing. If you use all of the malt you have (or swap out the 5.5 lbs of dark malt for amber malt, either way), then you'll get a 5 gallon batch of about 1.075 gravity. *This means* you will need to split your malt and water into 2 separate batches of total volume 3.5 gals each. After an hour long boil for each batch, you'll have 5 gals to go in the carboy. To get up to the 3.5 gals for a batch, put 2 gals in the kettle, bring it up near to boiling, stir in half of the malt extract (roughly), then add enough water to bring the volume up to 3.5 gals. You should make sure you have a means of measuring the volume in the kettle, as it rises - either by marking the sides of the kettle (as I've done) or using a measuring stick that when stuck down to the bottom, tells you the correct volume of liquid. For each 3.5 gal batch, bring the wort up to a boil and then add half of the hops. Boil for 45 minutes, then put your wort chiller in for 15 minutes (but bring the wort back up to boil before starting the 15 min countdown) to sanitize it; alternately, boil for 60 minutes, then do an ice bath to cool the wort. Bottom line is a 60-90 minute boil for each batch, to develop the hops correctly. You should end up with a malty, sweet-ish, very faintly hopped beer. Try to cool the wort down to 70-75 F before pitching the yeast. Oh - what is the % alpha acids (aa) for the hops? And are they pellets, plugs, or whole? If they are 5% and pellets, then my recommendations above are correct; if not, I'll need to modify. Happy brewing! dan
More Stuff
On 4/29/08, Phillip <mouse@dsmouse.net> wrote: > > I did tell one of the salesmen at the store what I was making, so > hopefully he thought before suggesting (hope is a 4 letter word, isn't > it?). Anyway, in it's dry& powdered form it's a very sandy tan colour, > slightly lighter than a Newcastle. Sounds good! Use the dark dry extract, then. > 3.5*2=7, no? or is it seven that should be (or will be) boiled down to > 5? You'll boil each 3.5 gal batch down to 2.5 gal - so yes, you'll be boiling 7 down to 5. However, if you manage to get *all* of the wort into one kettle, you only need 6 gal to boil down to 5 gal. I've found that my boil evaporate is roughly 1 gal per hour. > so, basically make sure it's boiling when I start the chiller to make > sure the chiller is sterile? By the time you put the chiller in (after 45 min of boiling), you should have a full, rolling boil. In fact, don't start timing the boil - or put in the hops - until you have a good boil - AND BEWARE FOAM/BOIL-OVERS! (I usually stand over the pot with pot holders, ready to yank it off heat until I'm sure it's settled in to a rolling boil and won't foam up.) After putting the chiller in, the boil will subside, so you want it to get back up to a full boil before timing the last 15 minutes. > > Oh - what is the % alpha acids (aa) for the hops? And are they > > pellets, plugs, or whole? If they are 5% and pellets, then my > > recommendations above are correct; if not, I'll need to modify. > > > > I'll have to look it up when I get home... OK - let me know if it's not 5% aa.
